It’s the most wonderful time of the year … engagement season!

This week marked the turning of a page … winter has returned.


With Halloween costumes returned neatly to their year-long hibernation, and the first snowfall of November already under our belts, it is perfectly clear that the dog days of summer are behind us.  Ahead are lazy football Sundays, cozy fires, comfort food galore … and engagement season!  It is a truly wonderful time of year!


We are all about fuzzy slippers and snow days, but it’s the electric excitement we sense when meeting with lovebirds to discuss engagement and wedding photography needs that gets us so excited for winter.


WeddingWire (a Bethesda, MD company that provides technology for the wedding industry) asserts that 33 percent of engagements happen between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day.  That’s a lot of newly engaged couples embarking on their quest to craft the perfect wedding day experience!


After the big question has been ‘popped’, couples turn around to realize they now have to pull off a logistical magic act … planning a wedding.  It may be that they are still starry-eyed from the proposal (or, possibly, from the tryptophan in Grandma’s holiday turkey) but most betrothed couples need help getting on the right track.


So, where does a newly engaged couple start planning?  Our experience indicates that the dress … venue … and photographer are the first three considerations/decisions made.


We couldn’t agree more!  This early stage is exactly the time to talk to your favorite photographer! (Shameless self-promotion implied.)


An engagement photography session perfectly encapsulates the love, excitement, and hope of an engaged couple, and the Pacific Northwest is a spectacular and pristine backdrop for this photographic celebration!  This photo session is also an ideal way for the couple to get to know their photographer’s style and personality.  The better you and your photographer understand each other, the more your images will reflect your true personality.

So, go ahead … get engaged this holiday season!  LOVE it up!


But when you do … remember to STOP … DROP … AND ROLL.  Then get up (because you look silly and you really aren’t on fire) and call Jeremiah Andrews Photography!

Love on,

Jeremiah & Shaunna

The dishes can wait … GO with your husband!

If you know us… or have ever read any of our blogs… you know that we travel together.  A lot.  I may even be so bold as to say that we ‘adventure’ together more than most couples.


I firmly believe that our shared love for travel, culture, music, theater, and other such adventures is one of the cornerstones of our strong bond.


This past weekend, during the reception of Zach & Kyla’s stunning Stinson Beach, California destination wedding, we heard this sentiment echoed in a simple toast.  Zach’s grandmother waited patiently until all other well-wishers had raised a glass in honor of the couple before standing to offer her simple (yet profound) advice.  She turned directly to the new bride as if the two were alone chatting over coffee and sweetly said, “Honey, when your husband has somewhere he needs to go and he wants you to join him… Go!  Leave the dishes in the sink, and the laundry can wait.  Your husband, however, shouldn’t.  If you don’t go with him, someone else may.”


Admittedly, this statement was met with a mixed bag of giggles and cheers.  After all, we don’t hear advice like this often enough these days.  Her statement wasn’t meant to be a threat; quite the opposite is true!


This (grand)motherly advice was a not-so-subtle reminder to nurture (far into the future) the commitment made during the couple’s wedding ceremony.  Most married couples can attest that the single-minded focus placed on our spouse prior to exchanging nuptials can diminish once real-life timelines, deadlines, and obligations become permanent, daily fixtures.  Under such circumstances even the strongest bonds can become frail.  Grandma’s advice?  Don’t let it happen!  Become, and remain, partners.  Each hugely supportive and an integral part of the other’s life experiences.


While I may not lose much sleep over undone laundry anyway… my take-away message from these sage words was the same.  Learn about each other, experience new things together, see the world together (even if you never get beyond your own backyard), grow individually and encourage your spouse’s growth, develop inside jokes, and never (ever) stop giving your all to the person you chose to spend your life with.


Take the time needed to actively love your significant other… to nurture the living, dynamic entity that is your relationship.  Remember that the time you have with this person is a precious gift; act accordingly.  Or, (as Grandma warns) someone else may.


The joys of being a destination wedding photographer far exceed the beauty of the ceremony location and celebratory experience of the reception.  We are exhilarated and honored when we are able to share these candid and loving moments.  They strengthen us as a couple and deepen our appreciation for love found, won, and kept true.

Until next time,

Jeremiah & Shaunna

Oh, the places we go …

You wouldn’t believe the number of comments we get while out and about, “You are always on the go!  So busy!  How do you find time to work?”  It’s true.  We are always on the go, but… surprise, surprise… we aren’t always just playing.

In truth, we intentionally try to find ways to bridge the work-fun gap by playing while we work.


I know, mind = blown, right?  After all, who can actually pull off having a blast while they work?  Um…  a destination lifestyle photographer, that’s who.  Want to see a little bit of what that looks like?  Okay, come on… let’s go!

Last weekend’s mid-September shoot was an engagement session for some very dear friends, Jamie and Andrew. When approached with the idea of piggybacking their engagement photo session onto a weekend hike into Goldbug Hot Springs (located near Salmon, Idaho) we were all in!  We have been wanting to explore some of the amazing hot springs nestled on and around the Snake River and this trip was the perfect excuse… I mean, reason.


Since this was not just a “fun” hiking trip, we had to be mindful to pack our equipment carefully into our main packs.  Yup, you guessed it… our beer reserve suffered for the cause of lightening our packs’ weight.  After all, we planned to hike, with full backpacks, the whole 3-4 miles into the hot springs and camp for three days.  We needed to bring only the essentials… and 40 pounds of “essentials” consisted of camera gear alone.  Thankfully, the late summer Idaho/Montana weather was on our side.  Bathing suits, Chocos, and sweatshirts to stave off the evening chill completed our weekend wardrobe.


The hike in was challenging… and breathtakingly remarkable.  So worth it!  Goldbug’s hot springs did not disappoint; there must have been almost a dozen tiered pools with varying combinations of hot and cold rushing spring water.  To say that sitting on the top of a mountain, basking in the warm summer sun, eating fresh foods/drinking local beers, and taking pictures of a beautiful couple full of love is “work” is not 100% true… but it is truly a perk to my profession.


During the photo session we needed to be mindful of all of the things that go into producing beautiful images for the couple, as well as keeping water out of the cameras… very, very careful.


Jamie and Andrew were wonderfully spontaneous and fun, fun, fun!  Their personalities shone through so easily.  We didn’t have to coax kisses or love out of these two.


Now that the weekend is over and we are back to day-to-day life we get to reflect on the wonderful benefits of being a destination photographer.  We really do get to see some amazing sights… and, oh my, the wonderful places we go!

We should mention, the support system we have at home is unparalleled.  Our friends, family, and even grown children rally around us and help keep everything from falling apart while we embark on our photography journeys… we know we couldn’t do all of this without all of them!


So what’s to be learned from this?  Maybe, sharing our adventures will prompt others to get out and explore.  Perhaps someone will realize that “jobs” don’t have to drain you, they can feed your soul too.  Whatever the case, we hope that our images and exploits bring enjoyment and laughter to all they touch.  Go on… live every moment… laugh every day… love deeply… and take lots of pictures!


~Jeremiah & Shaunna

Destination Wedding: LaCrosse, Wisconsin

Last weekend, while my friends and family were enjoying the beautiful Pacific Northwest’s early start to summer weather, I boarded an airplane for La Crosse, Wisconsin.

mk-229“Why in the world are you going to Wisconsin?” you ask. To photogrph my favorite kind of wedding … a destination wedding … I say!

IMG_0527While I love to take photographs in and around the Coeur d’Alene and Spokane areas, I am always super stoked when I have the opportunity to join a wedding party in another state (or country) on their special day. This was just such an occasion!

10557360_10152292514950765_563686280149497669_nIt all started in early Spring 2014 when my fun-loving bride and groom (Matt and Kelly) drove over four hours from their home in Montana to have me shoot their engagement photographs. What a rad couple! We had many laughs throughout the day and realized that we all shared a love of fine spirits and beer … these are my kind of quality folks.

10487240_10152292515160765_7539880754186938960_nWe instantly hit it off and had a blast during the photo session. The couple was surprised to learn that I encourage out-of-town wedding inquiries. In fact, I like to remind people to consider hiring me (a photographer they are already familiar with and trust) for destination wedding events. Often times the price paid to me for my photography session and travel is LESS than hiring an unknown photographer at the destination location.

IMG_0499Wherever I travel I try to find interesting ways to catch some of the local culture and night life. I was stoked to be able to catch a Devil Makes Three and Old Crow Medicine Show concert the night I flew into town.

IMG_0485(1)These bands rocked and the Vetter Stone Amphitheater in Mankato, Minnesota is an awesome venue. I highly suggest both.

IMG_0513My bride and groom-to-be were perfect in every way! Matt and Kelly graciously invited me to share the fun of their rehearsal dinner the night before the wedding, and made me feel like ‘one of the gang’. I got to experience some great fun and lots of really flavorful craft beers.

mk-228The day of the ceremony went off without a hitch. The bridal party and I took our time playing and taking pictures. We spent a good portion of the day off gallivanting even before the ceremony’s festivities began.

mk-222The couple was spontaneous and gladly let me work my creative magic. I feel that the images I delivered of their day show the true celebratory vibe of their special day. With very little direction, Kelly and Matt knew I would deliver a product that was beautiful, joyful, and captured their love for each other. I have to say that I believe we ended up with just what they wanted.

mk-231We traveled in a party bus (super fun, by the way) to multiple breweries, and even stopped along the banks of the mighty Mississippi River to take advantage of the gorgeous weather and greenery.

mk-219(1)We had lots of time to incorporate quirky picture settings and take candid shots of the bride, groom, and wedding party outside of the formal ceremony. This is so important for a couple like this who wanted to make a day of the celebration. This was their day and they loved every minute of it.

mk-226During the ceremony and reception I could really feel the love and happiness that wrapped around the couple. They are blessed to be supported and cared for in such a deep and meaningful way. By the way, did I mention that these people could get their groove on? Oh, yeah. That happened!

mk-235Thank you again to Matt and Kelly for making my trip to La Crosse such a blast! I am a lucky guy to get to spend time with cool lovebirds like them, and capture amazing portrait memories for them in the process.

This is why I love being a destination wedding photographer!

Day 3: Exploring the Roads Less Traveled in Bangkok

DSCN0032Day three started much the same as day two.  The bright, beautiful morning sun greeted us over the concrete jungle sprawled below.  Oh, and that lovely, savory soup awaited us atop the building.  

We expected that breakfast would be served in the same location.  Unfortunately, upon arrival at the Sky Lounge the room was dark and a single attendant stood ready to usher us onto another elevator.  Seems that this large, completely empty restaurant is not suitable to serve the same purpose two days in a row.  Nope.  We need to find a new spot for this morning’s shindig (sarcasm implied). 


I can’t decide if the shell-game hotel management plays with the morning food is some cruel joke, or a logistical strategy so I shut my mouth and just climb aboard. 

Our food was just as varied and flavorful as the day before.  We even had a system for gathering complimentary foods in fewer trips…and the soup!  I wish I had a pot of this stuff on my stove at all times. 

IMG_4327Today, Jeremiah is a determined man.  A couple we met had given us their hi-tech map of the area (complete with more street names and fewer pictures of temples) and explained the waterway transit system.  This waterway thoroughfare leads right to within walking distance of the Siriraj Medical Museum.  Remember?  The same Siriraj we spent half of the prior day walking the streets of Bangkok searching for. 

DSCN0252We learned that approximately one mile from our hotel was a depot, of sorts, for this local, riverboat commuter transit.  All we had to do was navigate our way to the tributary and pay the fare; creepy forensic museum here we come!  But first, the dreaded streets of Bangkok. 

A vast sea of humans and vehicles all pushing in different directions, and each vying for priority.  We mentally braced ourselves as we exited the elevator on the ground floor.  The contrast between the quiet, solitary elevator and the sardine-packed lobby is absurd.  I have never been surrounded by so many people in my life! 

DSCN0142We, again, leave the taxi queue area and head west toward the river.  The first half-dozen streets crossed were not terribly hectic, but still crossing made us anxious.  We watched in wonder as the locals fearlessly stepped into oncoming traffic to cross the roads unharmed and without incident. 

I was fascinated with the behavior and watched closely.  I noticed a trend in pedestrian protocol.  Pedestrians stop at a convenient location along a road and wait for an adequate number of ‘reinforcement’ pedestrians to also stop at the same spot.  As passing vehicles lose momentum, someone will spearhead the crossing effort. The hand facing traffic goes down at a “V” angle (we were told not to point directly at someone as it was considered rude) and you step out into the wild beyond.  And when one goes, so does the reinforcement group that had been forming as you waited.  How so much movement comes to an unspoken stop, all in harmony, is beyond me; but it does. 

photo 1
At the riverboat depot we boarded to the back, left of the vessel.  I sat next to the water and looked at the riverbank overrun with plastic debris and trash of all sorts.  (We saw so much natural beauty ruined by man’s waste and ignorance to the impact of the handling of the waste.)  The boat sat virtually empty for several minutes and then, as if on cue, a swarm of commuters shuffled down the plank and quietly onto the boat. 

photo 2
The aging man two rows ahead of me tugged on a rope which ran through small pulleys up the side of the boat.  The rigging was attached, finally, to a plastic shield off the side of the boat.  The shield was raised as needed to keep the spray from passing riverboat traffic off of passengers.  The engine roared to life and the anchor tossed aside. 

DSCN0172Once moving on the water the air cooled and the tree canopy allowed us some reprieve from the climbing midday sun.  The homes alongside the river were no more than twigs for frames, uneven plank boards for flooring, and corrugated plastic or metal serving as roofs and siding.  For some dwellings tattered curtains were the only shield from the elements.  More often than not, the Buddhist shrine in the courtyards glistened richly with golds and reds while the hovels beyond lay decaying. 

photo 3We recognize little glimpses of hope and beauty hidden in everyday life; potted flowers lining the entries of faded doorways served as subtle reminders of the resilience of the people in this region. 

When the boat finally reached its last stop we climbed the adjacent stairs to the walkway along the street above.  Jeremiah and I took turns reading the map and leading the expedition toward the museum.  I can only assume how foolish we looked while we buried our noses in the map as we walked, pointing and looking confused; often the only white people on the street. 

photo 2

Persistence paid off!  Not only did we find the entrance to the museum, but a wonderful street market lined the road just outside. 

photo 5We must have made a dozen stops on that road before we ever made it inside the campus.  Decadent cakes, beer, gooey hazelnut crepes, several varieties of kabobed meat, clothes shopping, more beer, and so much people watching.

DSCN0218The Siriraj Medical campus was buzzing with activity.  All along the open air hallways and green spaces between buildings people milled about reading, talking, and laughing.  No one we stopped spoke English, so we found a campus map and made our way to the forensic building. 

DSCN0190The entrance was unmarked and unmanned; it’s a fluke we found it at all!  We knew we had arrived, though, just by the corridor’s appearance.  Fluorescent lights hummed overhead and filtered light through specimen-filled formaldehyde jars.  Several tiny ceramic figurines sat vigil next to the base of one such jar; a touching yet eerie reminder of the life-force that once inhabited the body of the baby inside. 

DSCN0214The room we entered housed row after row and aisle upon aisle of human anatomy specimens.  Curiously enthralled, we crept our way past remarkable oddities in the human body, early stages of anatomy mapping technology, and the wonderfully preserved lacework of the human nervous system. 

photo 3Although not for those with weak stomachs (#nuffdeadbabies), the forensic museum was fascinating and well worth two days of effort to get there.  Another visitor we happened upon in the exhibit explained to us that there was a whole other area we had missed.  Jeremiah was giddy! 

DSCN0222Back down the wide, curved staircase, across a courtyard and into an identical whitewashed building; oops!  This had to be where we were intended to begin our tour.  A curved wall guided us to a ticket counter and, beyond, highly interactive display rooms.  This part of the museum housed a creepy display of parasites and related afflictions (I seriously could have lived all my days without sharing space with a life-size mannequin plagued with testicular ringworm).  On the other hand, I was intrigued by the naturally mummified cadavers; fascinating stuff folks!  We both appreciated this up-close and unfiltered look into the human body.

DSCN0182Surprisingly enough, we were hungry again!  We left the orderly confines of the campus for the harried Bangkok streets in search of food.  Conveniently, we found a taxi with little trouble.  We hopped into the back seat and named our destination.  The driver nodded and we drove on.  A block into our ride we asked what the price would be.  We knew it should not be more than 80 baht.  When the driver told us his price was 200 baht we refused.  The nerve!  We may be tourists but not stupid ones; we tried to negotiate to 100 baht.  After all, there had to be a happy middle-ground.  Irritated the driver pulled to the side of the road and shooed us out of the taxi. 

There we were again, dejected and walking to our hotel halfway across the city.  Luckily, we were close enough to the waterway transit to make our way back.  We stopped at a rooftop cafe, cooled down with another few beers and ate an early dinner.  The water sparkled as brightly as the golden temple rooftops on the opposite bank.

DSCN0253This was a good day.  We had managed to successfully navigate our way from one end of this gigantic city to the other; we were proud and contented.  Although this was the last day we planned to spend in Bangkok we found ourselves wishing we had just a little more time to explore, a theme that would become common to us along this whole adventure.  We laughed at our mishaps so far and planned a trip to the night market later for foot rubs.

DSCN0230As the sun cast an orange-red glow across the Chao Phraya river we dreamed ahead to jungle temples and exhilaratingly dangerous Cambodian lands.  We had seen so much, had our senses and comfort zones assaulted, and eaten some of the most remarkable foods already…could it get better?  Were we at all ready for this?  I think, yes!

Day Two: Unintentional Walking Tour of Bangkok

IMG_0189We woke early with the curtains drawn wide.  The day was starting off a bit hazy, like our minds.  We aren’t so much tired as we are disoriented in our surroundings.   City rooftops and massive roadways covered the landscape like body armor.  Only small patches of the natural, living planet below the armor are visible.

DSCN0141The hotel offered a complimentary buffet breakfast in the Sky Lounge atop the building.  Um, yes please!  We were extremely hungry and a multinational buffet sounded amazing.

 DSCN0033As the building is actually managed as three hotels and a restaurant/night club, we were unsure as to the navigation of the exchanges between the sections.

What we learned is there are two independent elevator systems which only run to certain floors.  It did get confusing.  But wait, there’s more!  Beyond the two main systems ran a third short elevator shaft up to the Sky Lounge and observatory.  It took us a couple tries to find that little side trip, but we made it and the buffet was glorious!

DSCN0139The room was a ring of silver clad food offerings at its inner point, and tables with window seats looking out over every direction of the city-jungle that is Bangkok.  We took turns scouting out culinary finds and returning to our table to share the spoils (and the view).

IMG_0129Jeremiah happened upon the pho station and brought back what would become my favorite dish served at Baiyoke.  Who knew I would love hot, spicy soup for breakfast? 

Jeremiah and I lingered at the table, sipping espressos and broadly smiling at the prospects of the day before us. 

We left the restaurant and headed for the staircase to the observation deck above.  The hallway was poorly lit and had a strange antiseptic smell to it.  In a short amount of time we became accustomed to, and even enjoyed, the smell as it was so much more pleasant than the sewage odor out on the streets.  The glow of the light at the observation deck’s door was blindingly strong against the black star-scape painted on the interior walls’ facade. 

DSCN0016We blinked hard as we stepped out into the daylight and onto the metal grated floor of the deck.  I looked toward the outer handrail and beyond to the miniaturized size of the city below.  My head spun and I retreated to the safety of the inner edge, happy to hold the rail behind me and look out (and up).  Jeremiah, on the other hand, was in heaven!  He walked along the outer edge giddy and observant. 

DSCN0012Eventually I decided the whole thing wasn’t going to fall out of the sky if I let go and I moved across to the outer rail for a better look.  As the observation deck slowly rotated around the body of the hotel we tried to make mental note of the direction we would travel this day.  We knew we would be heading toward the river but we didn’t know the exact route or duration of our journey. 

Bangkok-Tourism-106Bangkok is an enormous city and we had places to see; The Siriraj Medical Museum to start!  We had a vague understanding of the direction to travel for the museum, but the map was lacking.  It showed temple locations as primary information and all other streets were unimportant.  Bummer. 

No bother, we figured we could at least point to our map, nod, smile, and be whisked away to our destination.  The taxi transaction would then end in an exchange of baht (Thai currency).  Right?!  After all, many travel sites boast of Bangkok’s English-friendly ways.  Ok.  Ready, go! 

IMG_4314Back down the exchange of elevators and out to the city streets teeming with life and activity below.  We pass the tourists waiting at the hotel’s door and travel down to the next block.  There we approached the back, curbside door of a hot pink taxicab and open it.  Jeremiah smiles and states the name of our sightseeing destination to the driver.  The driver smiles and says only, “temple” with a nod.  “No.  Museum.  Siriraj Museum.  Prannok Road.” Jeremiah said slowly and deliberately.  “Look.  Here.  On map.”  He pointed to our circled map reference.  The driver glanced up, smiled and shook his head and hand in union saying “No.”  We backed away befuddled and the driver drove forward.  We tried upwards of 15 variations of the same exchange … all ending in the same result.

There we stood, deflated and hot, for a quarter of an hour until finally one driver nodded when we stated the museum’s name while pointing to the map.  We hopped in the car with no further questions asked; and away we sped!  

DSCN0135Down wide and narrow concrete byways, and through the hordes of people walking every which way.  At no time could we make out the direction of the water or find a recognizable street name on our pathetic map.  We were 100% dependent on our taxi driver to know the way to go from a glance at our tourist’s map.  As the car slowed into side street parking we knew that dependence had 100% bitten us in the ass.

DSCN0132The driver deposited us at the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles.  Well, at least he  heard “museum,” he just missed the small detail of which museum we were aiming to tour.  We decided to find a place to collect our bearings and situate ourselves with our map location.  We also decided that this place needed to serve beer.

We ate lunch at a little streetside cafe offering free wi-fi and overpriced iced coffee.  We ventured a try of a green curry and eggplant dish and a version of the tom yum soup with milky broth and shrimp.  Both were exceptional! 

IMG_0141It turns out we are on Ratchadamnoen Nai Road just outside the Grand Palace.  Wait, what?!  We had no intention on touring the Grand Palace.  We had never even Googled it!  It also turns out that we are several miles (and a boat ride) from our intended adventure.  Oh well, time for a new plan. 

DSCN0036We made our way back to the street and navigated around halted tour groups, street beggars, merchant tables adorned in brightly colored linens, hanging baubles, and shiny trinkets for sale.  The grounds of the Grand Palace are surrounded by a formidable whitewashed wall, and every visitor enters and exits through massive, rich wooden gates flanked by guards. 

DSCN0066Before you are granted entrance to the Palace grounds you must be dressed appropriately.  My (below-knee) capris were, surprisingly, a fashion no-no, and Jeremiah was required to cover his tank top and shorts, STAT.  
DSCN0069Luckily, there is a service for the wayward, ignorant tourist experiencing just such a ‘costume malfunction’.  You may borrow (from unkempt dressing rooms) skirts, shirts and pants to cover your own fully-functional-yet-unacceptable clothing.  You pay a fully-refundable 1000 baht deposit, are handed a little yellow receipt (don’t lose this … no ticky, no money), and enter the Grand Palace temples assured that your are in dresscode compliance.  We were both boiling hot in two layers of clothes, but glad to have a shield of fabric between our skin and hundreds of other peoples’ sweat.  
DSCN0076My brain and eyes were not ready to process the amount of stimulation I encountered that day.  The temple rooms within visually stimulate so much that you can become overwhelmed.  Everywhere I looked was another beautiful, opulent, intricate, offering to the Palace and the care of its grounds.  
Peaks and domes glisten golden in the early day’s sun.  We couldn’t believe our eyes…  So.  Much.  Gold.  Thousands upon thousands of tiles are leafed in it and throngs of religious statues embellished richly.  
DSCN0071Restoration efforts are noticeable and ongoing around the grounds.  Of all the many throne rooms, prayer rooms, and courtyards a handful of buildings were cordoned off and surrounded by wooden scaffolding.  Upon that scaffolding perched pointy-hatted workers methodically removing decayed areas. On another section workers install replica pieces that show off the original grandure of the structures.  At one point we even came upon a replica of Ankgor Wat temple from Siem Reap, Cambodia.  We couldn’t wait to see the temples of Cambodia!  
DSCN0085After a few hours of meandering about the grounds (while sweating and drinking copious amounts of water) we were physically spent.  We left the Grand Palace and crossed the busy intersection in hopes of finding a taxi back to our hotel.  After the morning’s mishap we were skeptical but we needed to figure this taxi thing out.  
We approached drivers with the name of our hotel, and they shook their heads.  We walked another block or two and asked again.  Still no luck, and our tourist map was of no use.  The blocks started to blur together and before we knew it there were no more taxis to hail.  We ended up walking several miles (some of them were walked in circles).  We aimed our feet in the general direction we believed our hotel to be in and prayed as we walked.  Ok, yes.  We may have even lost our tempers a wee bit along the way.  It was a lot of walking aimlessly; the heat made us cranky.  
DSCN0041Eventually we did flag down a taxi that safely delivered us to the only familiar place in this land, the Baiyo.  The sun was just beginning its descent as we made our way into the hotel room.  The view beckoned us to sit and relax while the sky put on a color and light show that we enjoyed as if we were the only two people on the planet.  
That night we went in search of “Thai hot” food; easier said than done.  Jeremiah and I love hot food.  I think Jeremiah is excessive in his zeal at times, but he loves me anyway.  
We were discussing the lacking Scoville heat over pad thai that evening when a local man overheard us and chimed in.  He said he knew of a lady with a reputation for turning up the heat.  He coaxed, “I will take you to her if you are serious.  If you really want Thai hot!”  Jeremiah took the bait.  He jumped up and we followed the young man in hot pursuit.  We zigged and zagged for a couple of blocks down a trail of identical alleyways.  The lady-of-the-hour stood in front of a green food cart with an open fire wok at her side.  Our guide exchanged a few words with the chef and a couple of laughs before he patted Jeremiah on the back and said, “She will make something special for you, my friend!”  He then walked back into the crowd and disappeared.  
We returned our attention to the food preparation. 
This little woman ground several ghost and Thai chilis with her mortar and pestle.  She added this ground hell-fire to fine pad noodles, assorted vegetables, broth, and shrimp in the wok and wove her spicy voodoo magic.  Finally, we received: one bowl of steaming goodness, one fork, and one tissue to share between us.  
DSCN0140We were directed to sit at the solitary bistro table behind the cart (which hovered precariously in the entryway of a laundry service).  I can tell you that the spice that woman used was mind-blowing.  I had to tap out early.  My nose had long since used up our single allotted cleaning tissue and I was on fire from the inside out.  Let’s just say it wasn’t my prettiest moment.  Jeremiah was a glutton for punishment and ate heartily.  He laughed through the tears.  I assumed it was a good thing.
After this chaotic, beautiful long day didn’t know what else Bangkok could throw at us, but we knew two things for sure:  #1. We needed to invest in a real map.  #2. Antacid had to be found before bed!

Day 1: Compression Socks Rock

The days leading up to our departure were a blur of checked tick marks on to-do lists, last minute necessary travel supply purchases, and crazy domestic mishaps. 
With three children, two homes, four animals, and a couple of businesses to keep running smoothly in our absence many, many loose ends needed to be tied up before we (ok, I) felt free to shed day-to-day responsibilities for the unencumbered posture of a world traveler.  By the time we even lifted off from our first airport I needed a vacation from our vacation preparation!
Don’t be fooled, we have done our fair share of daydreaming too. Jeremiah spent countless research hours pouring over maps of far-off places we hoped to visit (most of which had names we couldn’t come close to pronouncing), and I often scanned the web for insider tips on how to make the most of our time in Thailand and Cambodia.  We thought we were prepared; we thought we knew what to expect.  We were wrong.  We were simply freshmen about be get schooled on everything from temple etiquette to cultural misconceptions.  
The first day of our trip started early…like the day before early.  I know it may seem strange to consider the start to our trip occurring before departure, but this was the longest trip either of us had embarked upon and we wanted to be comfortable and safe.  
Seasoned, long-haul travelers warned us to expect leg discomfort and poor rest during and immediately following the extended flights.  This was bad news for us!  Jeremiah is prone to suffering from restless legs anyway, and we knew our immune systems and chipper dispositions would suffer greatly if we became sleep deprived; not a good recipe for a spectacular holiday.  We were determined to take preventative measures where possible.  
Our fatigue-battling arsenal consisted of baby aspirin, vitamin C, compression socks, ear plugs, inflatable travel pillows, and low-dose sleeping pills!  We each took one baby aspirin and 500 mg of vitamin C the morning and evening of the day prior to departure as well as the morning of the trip.  We donned knee-length compression socks as soon we boarded our first flight and didn’t remove them until we prepared for landing in Bangkok.  While in flight from Seattle, Washington, to Seoul, South Korea, we created personal sleep cocoons with our travel pillows and ear plugs.  To top it all off, we toasted with a cocktail of a tall glass of water and a sleeping pill (okay, yes, and a whiskey or two.  Who’s counting?).
The combination worked like a charm!  Not only did we sleep for the majority of the trip, but Jeremiah’s legs didn’t get the antsy feeling he was afraid would plague him following travel.  Of course, we did walk the aisles of the airplane and stretch often when we were awake mid-flight, but the fatigue we expected did not grab hold of us.
I guess, for due diligence’s sake, I should offer the disclaimer that we are not medical professionals and cannot advise anyone to take any medication without consulting his/her own physician.  Come on people, use your noggins!  This is a tongue-in-cheek article not a medical journal.  Proceed accordingly.
Travel Tip:  Buy quality compression socks (my preference is the long, over the knee style) and wear them!  Embrace the fact that you look goofy as hell in them and ride the wave of leg and foot comfort all the way to your flight’s destination. 
I digress.  We were finally underway at daybreak.  We bundled our sundries into our packs and said our tearful, hug-filled goodbyes.  and Honestly, the first 14 hours of our first day’s travels was a blur.  So many broken segments of sleeping and waking time you lose track, and it could be any hour outside those shielded airplane windows.  
 We did attempt to sleep in larger segments of time in alignment with our arrival time zone, which seemed like a logical move to combat jet lag.  After the short hop from Spokane to Seattle we boarded Korean Air bound for Seoul, South Korea.  Korean Air was a wonderful surprise in their service and amenities.  We really lacked for nothing to eat, drink, or entertain us while in flight.  Personal monitors meant that watching a movie with your honey was played out using earplugs and simultaneous video play.  Functional, not sexy.  
After a lovely flight flanking the sun forward in time, we landed in Seoul, South Korea.  We had no time in the city, but I was impressed with the enormity of the Hangang Bridge on the Han River.  It seemed to span almost horizon to horizon over water.  Pretty cool!  
Anyway, back at the Seoul airport we were left to wander undirected down a long corridor toward international customs.  Much to our dismay, we learned we had to endure the whole bag opening, liquids segregating, passport studying examination we had in Spokane, Washington.  Strike ONE.  
As the exceedingly long, gangly line of people funneled down into a one-lane human traffic jam, tempers flared and arguments erupted.  All in all, the dirty cheaters who thought they could cut in line didn’t get any farther any faster.  We all came to a dead halt 100 people deep and with only 15-20 minutes to board our connecting flights to Thailand.  Strike TWO. 
Upon successful exit from the human funnel that was international customs, we old-lady-mall-walked our buns expeditiously a long-ass way.  So far.  So fast.  Carrying full packs.  It was as close to “The Amazing Race” TV show style action as I ever expect to get. 
We rounded the corridor corner which led to our boarding gate and waved a hasty goodbye to our hometown friends.  A yard or two farther and Jeremiah grabbed my arm mid-stride and cursed aloud.  This was never a good lead in.  He realized he had left his liquids bag containing his contact lens case and solution as well as all our bug spray back at the customs area.  We froze.  Return and risk missing the plane or continue and risk not having sight in water?  We chose to board the plane and leave the fate of Jeremiah’s contacts and our bug bites in the hands of Thai drugstores (which are pretty rad, FYI). 
The lobby was completely empty except the two gate attendants waiting for us to board.  Apparently we were holding things up and they didn’t much care for it.  Even though we quickly boarded and took our seats, the plane ended up sitting idly on the tarmac for over 30 minutes.  We shook our heads at the irony and passed the time with a travel sudoko book.
Once in Bangkok we easily converted our money and made our way toward the mass transit elevated train line which would take us to our hotel for the next two evenings.  Baiyoke Space Hotel.  Baiyo (pronounced: by-yo), as we learned to abbreviate it, is the tallest hotel in Thailand and the seventh tallest in the world.  You see, my husband has this “thing” for staying at least one night in an excessively tall hotel when he travels.  It helps me work on my fear of heights.  I guess we both get something out of it.
Fatigued and giddy we arrived at our train stop, stepped from the air-conditioned car and straight into the wall of humid heat we would battle for the next 21 days.  Tonight the warmth was welcome and exotic.  We hurried down the train platform and through the poorly lit alleyway toward the towering fluorescent beacon of our hotel.  At this point we were fueled by the last burst of energy we could muster, and the repugnance of the aroma from raw sewage running down the roads and pooling in crevices and pits throughout.
After a refreshing shower we threw open our room’s wall-to-wall curtains and fell, exhausted, into arm chairs facing the twinkling cityscape below.  We raided the minibar and toasted the day’s successful travels with strawberry wine coolers.  We fell asleep gazing at the same city lights, satisfied and excited to experience the land around us.  Tomorrow we ride!  But, first, sweet slumber.

Prepare For Take-Off

How do you retell an adventure? I am glad to share the experiences Jeremiah and I had on our trip through Thailand and Cambodia this past month … but how to start? Well, let’s lay out a map of Southeast Asia and I can better visualize the travels, ok?


After all, 20-someodd days of living life on the other side of the world is long enough to forget a little bit; and if you know me, it’s long enough to forget what happened yesterday.


I can tell you that the bright-eyed (if not a bit groggy) people who set out on this adventure were in no way anticipating the journey that would come to pass. But isn’t that the way life goes? … Plans have a way of changing mid-flight.

We intentionally, painfully, liberatingly planned to: travel light, travel cheap, and let the experience lead us.


In hindsight, we did alright on the ‘light’ and ‘cheap’ points, but we excelled at letting the experience lead and change us! I know we both can say implicitly that we have grown individually and as a couple by leaps and bounds. I have always mused that you really get to know your partner during projects and travel … that theory was tested during our month apart from the people and life to which we are accustomed. You cannot help but change.


As we settle into being home, hang out with family, spend time with friends, and jump head-long into the mounds of ‘adult to-do’s’ we end up often mentally slipping back to the days and weeks we spent in a land made of red dirt and lush greens. A layer of rubbish, plastic debris, and dust was prevalent in most of the places we visited, but the beauty and magic of the land is undeniable … and the spell has been cast. If you sit long enough with either Jeremiah or me you will likely be told a story from our trip. We can’t seem to help ourselves, please do be patient with us.


Over the next few weeks I will share some of the memories we have made and try to take you to the unforgettable sites we have seen. We hope to spark your interest in Thailand and Cambodia, and in international travel of all kinds! We will offer the feeble advice recently acquired from a ‘learned it the hard way’ perspective. And, finally, we will show you some marvelous images photographed by Jeremiah Andrews Photography (not to mention, a few snapped by little ole’ me).

trip-376I am excited to get underway in the next few days … stay tuned!